i want a colored primer !!!

[IndecentXxXposur]

ok check it out...i am gonna primer my truck for now till i can save the money i need to paint it...but i don't want rattle can or black or rust or grey...i want GREEN !!!...is there a primer that u can make any color you want ?? i get all my stuff from napa and they carry dupont..which is good i think..and before i look like a d.a i figured i'd ask here 1st (since you can't see me and make fun lol) so yeah wuz up....

[Bagged_frontier]

Well if you are trying to prime it why not just buy one of the flat kits from someone online? You can make it look like primer and still have it where it does not rust under it. That is if you have done any work to the body. I have primer on the bed of mine and it is now begining to rust under the primer. Tcpglobal sells the gallon kits for a decent price. I am not sure if you are trying to just go cheap and rattle can it all? I have a friend he does that to his ranger. here is a link to the hot rod flat kit and check out the prices. You are going to need a gallon kit for it to cover all the truck.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx

[infamous_dough_boi]

I have primer on the bed of mine and it is now begining to rust under the primer.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx


i have never heard of something rusting under primer unless the rust was already there to begin with. not sure what up with ur rust issue but i have owned plenty of primered trucks and none have ever rusted under the primer. my 90 isuzu was primer for like 4 years and never rusted. just my :2:

as far as tinted primer and good paint supply store should be able to tine primer any color you want. i have had almost any color primer u can think of. red green yellow blue ect... i know the napa here used to tint primer for me but they no longer do. i go to the paint supply place and they do a good job. never found a color yet i couldnt get.

[Hardwood]

ive seen it rust under the primer also someone told me it was because the primer doesnt really protect it like paint and clear would they said it doest rust right away but give it a few months but it usually is where you would have rust already or the common spots rust forms where you think you dont have rust yet... but yea like dough boi said they can tint the primer any color you want (my uncle did it with an old beater car he had he would just reprime it every 5 months a different color)

[Bagged_frontier]

i have never heard of something rusting under primer unless the rust was already there to begin with. not sure what up with ur rust issue but i have owned plenty of primered trucks and none have ever rusted under the primer. my 90 isuzu was primer for like 4 years and never rusted. just my :2:

as far as tinted primer and good paint supply store should be able to tine primer any color you want. i have had almost any color primer u can think of. red green yellow blue ect... i know the napa here used to tint primer for me but they no longer do. i go to the paint supply place and they do a good job. never found a color yet i couldnt get.

Well it actually does rust under the primer. Primer is just for an under coat It is not designed to stan the sun uv rays and elements as well. I also live in Houston where it is constant humidity and with all the rain we been having yea it will make your body rust. That is why I sugest the flatz kit. It is an actual top coat and is design to protect your body. You can also get a flat clear if you just wanted to keep it flat for the guy asking the question. They can tint the primers, I just seen some around here not want to but you can just get some paint seperate and add it your self. I am not sure where he is from but he would rather consider that over primer unless he is shooting the truck and it has the top coat and no bare metal spots on it. Then he can shoot primer since it has a top coat over under the primer to protect it from rust. The other idea is to use a epoxy primer and if you find the grey color get some paint and tint the primer to your liking. That will keep it from rusting under it as well. We did that to a few car and it holds up just fine. I did an s10 and it had plenty of shaving done and this is about 8months later here in town and he still has a good color of black with little fading if any and his filler plates are not rusting as well. just my 2cents, I paint on the side as a hooby of mine. This is some stuff I have learned from my teachers at school and bullshitting with the guys in the paint shops while they mix up paint for me.

[osupride]

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx <----this will answer all of your prayers! and it is pretty cheap IMO....I'm going to use it on mine when it's ready. But you should use a good white primer and get them to dye it at the paint shop, they just mix paint in with it.....I think there may be a primer that already has colors, but I remember back when I primed an old truck of mine PPG only had like white, grey, and red(more like brown)

[IndecentXxXposur]

thanks guys...the only reason for primering it a color is so if i drive it...it doesn't look like every1 else that has primer...NO RATTLE CAN NETIHER....but the truck will stay in the shop out of the weather but i just plan on driving it here and there until i can save the money for the paint i want..so i shouldn't have a rust problem..i don't think...

[manic_mechanic]

house of kolor has a green primer.

[mrkenny]

here ya go from a daily painter... i throw a paint(any color) into the primer gun before i shoot a car that is going to be staying in primer for a while... either because the person doesn't have all the money to fully paint the car, or just wants it left like that until they do get around to painting it...

paint is thinner than primer, so it all shoots out of your gun good...

THE ONLY NEGATIVE I HAVE FOUND WITH DOING THIS!!!!!!!!!
is that when you do go to paint the vehicle, when you block it down one last time, it seems to gum up the sand paper more than usual...

now to me this isn't a big issue cuz i have my little shop boys and don't mind going through an extra couple pieces of sand paper!!!

it doesn't take alot of paint either... let me know if u have any other questions

[okndnx]

I need this info

[fku8trs]

ok i work at a bodyshop scene i was 10 years old im a painter and so is my dad and
if you dont want it to rust then i would go buy apoxy primer its made for bare metal and you could tint it if you want to .. me i would lay down a couple of coats of apoxy primer and then sand it and then reprime with real primer you kinda get the best of both worlds on you have a rust protector and when you sand it you can make sure your body work is straight and if its a little off the real primer will make it up for you when it comes time to block your real primer and you can get primer tinted a napa i know i can here i live in indiana and shit rottens here rust is a under statement in this state .... if you ask some hot rod shop that do custom hot rods that go and get blasted and come back bare they will throw some apoxy primer on it first to stop and rusting and rember when you have bare metal make sure you clean it with a wax and grease remover cause the oils from you hand can cause rust or and problems down the road... i hope this helps if any questions hit me up ...

[White Trash Renegade]

Just don't put down an epoxy if you ever want to sand it down to paint it in the future. Shit gets rock hard after a while!

[droppednissan06]

you can get a olive green etching primer that trans star makes which is good for bare metal i have always just tinted a epoxy primer it works good over bare metal spots

[GrantH]

Just don't put down an epoxy if you ever want to sand it down to paint it in the future. Shit gets rock hard after a while!


disagree with this. i've had epoxy on my fords cowl for a while now (8 months before I touched it) and it sanded just fine. epoxy is the only real way to prime a truck/car and have it seal up and not allow water underneath it...........epoxy primer or sealer whatever you want to call it. sealer is just reduced a bit more.

[Freak]

Ive been working at a bodyshop for about 4 years now, and havent really gotten into different primers (we use Transtar's 2k Urethane primer) as MOST of the work we do is collision work.

Whats the difference between my 2k Urethane and the epoxy? One thing i have noticed about the primer i use is it seems to shrink up a little bit after a months time (for example on my bike, i waited about 2 weeks after priming to sand and then paint, wet sanded and buffed a few days afterwards, looked gorgeous, and suddenly sand scratched started appearing before my eyes over the next few months)

Maybe its a characteristic of 2k primer? idk, i just use what im given to work with at the shop.

YES it will surface rust on corners mainly if you just prime it in (atleast the primer i use does) after a few months (3-4)

[unluckybstrd]

I just wanted to chime in, mainly because im bored, but also i feel theres some bad info going on. Now, ive been painting my entire adult life, been doing it every single day for about 12 years now. Ive painted thousands of collision jobs, and hundreds of custom jobs. And i gots a secret for ya. PRIMER IS NOT INTENDED AS A TOPCOAT. Period, end of story. Dont matter if its 2k urethane, epoxy, laquer, or any other possible primer you can think of. Primer is, as its name implies, a primer for top coats. What this means for those of you playing along at home, is that, given enough time, a vehicle that has nothing but primer on it, WILL RUST. Now, before all you guys start kicking me in the sack about how so and so's trucks been in primer for 70 years and it aint rusted, let me say that some primers, especially direct to metal epoxys, will hold for a long time. Eventually though, they will fail without something over them. So, if you wants one of them fancy flat paintjobs, sack up and have someone spray it with a bascoat/ flat clear. Or satin clear, or semigloss, or whatever tickles your anus. Cool thing about doin it this way, you can have any color flat, even metallics and pearls. Hell you could even do a flat candy ifin ya wanted, would prolly look like crap, but again, whatever ticlkes your anus. Another bonus of using a flat clear, is you can be the first kid on your street to have a full flat graphic job. So, hopefully the primer as a topcoat and the wonderful world of flat paint is clearer now. One other thing i wanted to touch on was freaks question about shrinkage. Every material used in the refinish of automotive surfaces will swell and contract given the right environment. However,the problem youre describing is quite common, and is the result of inexperience (no offense, the same problem haunted me for years). It can be resolved once you determine the cause. Youre either not finishing your body work out in a fine enough grit before priming, not giving the primer long enough to cure (between coats, overall, or both),or buffing your clear before its finished outgassing which is causing dieback. Solutions? i gots em. Finish your body work out with 180 AT LEAST. Make sure to allow the proper flash times between coats of primer, and give the clear ample time to release solvents before you buff it. I usually wait a full day after sanding if im doing custom work befor buffing. Obviously collision work doesent give you that luxury, but give it a couple hours at least . Anywho, hope my little novel helps. Any questions, hit me up. Any comments, post em up. And any complaints, please see the complaint department.:thumb:

[Freak]

I just wanted to chime in, mainly because im bored, but also i feel theres some bad info going on. Now, ive been painting my entire adult life, been doing it every single day for about 12 years now. Ive painted thousands of collision jobs, and hundreds of custom jobs. And i gots a secret for ya. PRIMER IS NOT INTENDED AS A TOPCOAT. Period, end of story. Dont matter if its 2k urethane, epoxy, laquer, or any other possible primer you can think of. Primer is, as its name implies, a primer for top coats. What this means for those of you playing along at home, is that, given enough time, a vehicle that has nothing but primer on it, WILL RUST. Now, before all you guys start kicking me in the sack about how so and so's trucks been in primer for 70 years and it aint rusted, let me say that some primers, especially direct to metal epoxys, will hold for a long time. Eventually though, they will fail without something over them. So, if you wants one of them fancy flat paintjobs, sack up and have someone spray it with a bascoat/ flat clear. Or satin clear, or semigloss, or whatever tickles your anus. Cool thing about doin it this way, you can have any color flat, even metallics and pearls. Hell you could even do a flat candy ifin ya wanted, would prolly look like crap, but again, whatever ticlkes your anus. Another bonus of using a flat clear, is you can be the first kid on your street to have a full flat graphic job. So, hopefully the primer as a topcoat and the wonderful world of flat paint is clearer now. One other thing i wanted to touch on was freaks question about shrinkage. Every material used in the refinish of automotive surfaces will swell and contract given the right environment. However,the problem youre describing is quite common, and is the result of inexperience (no offense, the same problem haunted me for years). It can be resolved once you determine the cause. Youre either not finishing your body work out in a fine enough grit before priming, not giving the primer long enough to cure (between coats, overall, or both),or buffing your clear before its finished outgassing which is causing dieback. Solutions? i gots em. Finish your body work out with 180 AT LEAST. Make sure to allow the proper flash times between coats of primer, and give the clear ample time to release solvents before you buff it. I usually wait a full day after sanding if im doing custom work befor buffing. Obviously collision work doesent give you that luxury, but give it a couple hours at least . Anywho, hope my little novel helps. Any questions, hit me up. Any comments, post em up. And any complaints, please see the complaint department.:thumb:

I was about 90% sure it was because i needed to let the paint "heal" as i like to call it. (I have been wetsanding and then jumping right into buffing because of my time restrictions, my bike was no exception, was in a rush to get it buffed and back together for a big ride) the few times im allowed to wetsand something and let it sit a day or so it seems to buff easier, and look so much better.

I do finish my body work with 180, prime, block w/ 320 (unless it could use a blocking w/ 180 and a reprime) wetsand w/ 400 (if i was allowed to go finer i WOULD, but my boss refuses to let me use anything but that.)

thanks for clearing that up