BD questions

[yeti_'87HB]

alright i have a few questions about BD's. i know most of the questions were asked before, but they weren't entirely answered, and i have a few that i haven't seen before

when doing a traditional BD 2.75" to the rocker:

-do you have to Z the front of the frame?

-if i'm gunna be running 18's in the front, do i have to relocate the clutch master cyl?

-do i have to change to a geo metro brake booster?

-which one is better for a daily driver?(not sure if i want to cut the top of the frame off with a stock floor)

-doesn't doing a BD change the angle of the steering shafts, possibly putting strain on the knuckles of the shafts?

i know thats a lot of questions, but i need to know these things before i jump into it, i can't afford to go in blind

[inkjunky]

alright i have a few questions about BD's. i know most of the questions were asked before, but they weren't entirely answered, and i have a few that i haven't seen before

when doing a traditional BD 2.75" to the rocker:

-do you have to Z the front of the frame?

-if i'm gunna be running 18's in the front, do i have to relocate the clutch master cyl?

-do i have to change to a geo metro brake booster?

-which one is better for a daily driver?(not sure if i want to cut the top of the frame off with a stock floor)

-doesn't doing a BD change the angle of the steering shafts, possibly putting strain on the knuckles of the shafts?

i know thats a lot of questions, but i need to know these things before i jump into it, i can't afford to go in blind

2.75 will only get you to the pinch. yes you will have to z the frame in the front. clutch master cyl will need to be moved. you can use the stock brake booster. i personally not cut the frame for a stock floor if your going to drive it every day. i havent gotten to bolt the column up all the way but it looks like it will work ok. maybe have to shorten it a bit

[chopndroptx]

You can cut the body in the front instead of "Z"ing the frame, you just have to use a radiator from a 720. Its smaller and fits perfect even with a 3.5 BD.

[yeti_'87HB]

how much is it to the rocker?
will i have to change the booster if i go to the rocker?

[inkjunky]

how much is it to the rocker?
will i have to change the booster if i go to the rocker?

3.5 to the rocker. you can use the stock booster. unless youve got a really big ofset. ive got a 20 by 8.5 inch with 35 offset and it clears

[slammed97]

according to ice 2.75 is to the rockers.....that as far as they went on scotty's truck and it lays rocker....also dont cut corners, if ur gonna drive it daily i would z the front frame horns.....stock booster is fine, clutch will have to be moved and the steering would most likely not be affected.....i would say on the column u will need to cut a section above it for the firewall to move down, and then patch it below....

[yeti_'87HB]

i thought 3.5" was flat rocker, i'll have to PM ice and see what he says. thanks for the info guys.

if anyone else has any input, feel free to throw down

[inkjunky]

2.75 was on a harbody acording to ice on an earlier post. 3.5 to the rocker on a frontier.

[Ice]

on the hardbodies... 2.75 will get ya to the rockers and you must bend the pinch rails up ... and you will drag rockers... trust me....

on the 98 type of frontiers, if i remember right, you need 3.25" - 3.5 or so .cant remember though..

easy way to find out on any trucks.. take a square and put it on the frame , then move it up to the rockers, mark it on the frame , and measure from the mark down.. this will tell ya how much to lay rockers or whatnot....

theres dif ways to lay the front... you can z the frame (i recomend) doing that, you will need to move over and up the radius bars , or make new ones..
and you can keep your stock rad and etc.....

you can cut corners and just cut the bodymounts down and get a smaller rad like mention earlier.. but then you have to cut your bumper brackets and z them and hope you have them right to align up .. and also your going with a smaller radiator... so less coolent flowing threw the engine.... i dont like doing it like that... i Z the frames... more work.. but better results ... but thats me.....

your booster will be fine depending on tires.... its not too hard to move it over if you have to ... same with the clutch... just moving it up and over will be good.....

the key to a good bodydrop is proper planning.... take as much out of the cab as possible... mark your lines for cutting... picture it in your head how the cab will move when dropping after cutting and cut things out of the way thats gonna hit the frame..... if you plan right.. as the cab drops after cuts , it will fall together like a puzzle... and you will have very little metal to fill in ...

[yeti_'87HB]

if i move the clutch MC over, i'll have to modify the clutch pedal arm if i want to keep it roughly in the same position in relation to the other pedals and the wheel tubs?